THEME: The letter I (or 1) is used in almost all words
GOOD ONES: Large I built into grid Question of choice WHICH
Accommodating place INN
BTW: There are at least 8 letter K's. It will be a long time before that happens again.
OK, now I'm angry! At 4-Down we get "They, in Tours" to clue the French
ILS, but the foreign word was unneeded since it could have as easily been ITS (thus HILT instead of HILL at 12-Across). This is abject defiance for which, as Mr. Obama says, there will be consequences!
This is a puzzle more fun in the making than in the solving. And I'm not sure how many solvers noticed the grid and how many of those noticed all the I's. This is another act of defiance by the LAT editors who refuse to entitle the puzzles (in this case "The I's Have IT") to aid in seeing the theme.
RATING:

Three grins = Loved it; Two grins = Enjoyed it; One grin = A bit bland for my taste; One teardrop = Not much fun